South of the Border-MEXICO!
Mexico is one of those places we’ve almost all visited and yet never actually seen. We’ve largely been on cruise ships to ports such as Cozumel, Cabo, Acapulco and the Mayan Riviera. Or, we’ve vacationed in Cancun. Either way, we’ve seen the coastal tourist areas and little else. Many of us are concerned about personal safety, which is understandable given the news, little of which is positive. For the latest one can visit the linked US State Department’s site. The State Department essentially has warnings up for the entire country, concerning general and violent crime, gang activity, and kidnapping. One exception is the Yucatan and Cancun. Exercise your best judgement.
Janet and I checked with various sources before we signed on for two tours of central Mexico. While several areas are listed to avoid, essentially we were advised that the routes we were to visit with the tour would be safe, but to exercise the cautions one might in American cities. Having spoken to Mexican nationals the advice given was always the same – mainly stay out of places that make you uncomfortable, away from places you don’t belong, and beware your alcohol consumption. They also stressed stay away from drugs and don’t flash cash or luxury goods – leave the Rolex and designer purses home. Be where there are other people, and don’t wander off with strangers. One last tip: Don’t just drive off with any taxi you hail. Only use licensed cabs, and preferably one called for you by your hotel or restaurant. If visiting your hometown regardless of location, you’d likely give the same advice.
We decided to run two tours back-to-back offered by two tour operators, Exxotica and Gate 1. The reason was that the tours did not significantly overlap and ran back-to-back, cutting the cost for the experience. We did “Land Only” options for both, preferring to arrange our own flights. (The Houston area is served by a few “budget” Mexican airlines, plus the usual American carriers.) Both companies started their tours in Mexico City. As we’d never been there before, and the prices for hotels was reasonable, we arranged to fly in a few days early. (NOTE: We receive no compensation whatever for our use or mention of ANY airline, tour company or travel agency. It’s our money being spent, like yours.)
We chose to fly non-stop to CdMEX on Viva! Aerobus, flying out of Houston since 2010. After checking the various passenger reviews, it seemed a good bet. So, we arranged to fly to MEX, and return from Oaxaca via Mexico City and Monterrey.
After an early morning ride to Bush International in Houston, we got our first taste of Mexican chaos standing in line for check-in. Viva! had two windows open for three flights out, and the lines for each destination were not well marked. Checking in took over an hour. Those having paid extra for express check-in got nothing for their money. Once checked, it was then a scramble to the gate.
The flight on Viva! was fine. The plane was a recent vintage Airbus, clean and comfortable. I’m a big guy and did not feel shoehorned into my economy seat. Service was good, but nothing was free. There was a menu of food and snacks to choose from in the seat pocket. That is becoming regular fare even on some legacy airlines.
Arriving at Mexico City was easy enough, as was gathering our luggage. We only had one checked bag apiece, always trying to travel light. We caught a taxi to the Hotel PF near the Angel of Independence Victory Column in Zona Rosa. It was a nice place, good breakfast, and a near-perfect location for walking, catching a cab, or public transport at Insurgentes underground station. All sorts of shopping and a wide variety of restaurants were just out the door, with the staff cheerfully willing to provide help as needed.
Jan and I, waiting for her sister Judy to arrive, decided to take a walkabout. Strolling down Calle Londres we came to Calle Genova, a lively pedestrian zone five minutes away. There we found Tacos La Tienza…attracted by their inexpensive margaritas, lunch specials and outdoor seating for people watching. Along the way we passed several other places worth a visit, which we did other days. The most notable was La Casa de Toño, where lines formed throughout the day for its well-served and delicious foods at reasonable prices. Oddly, there are two La Casa de Toño restaurants literally across the street from one another on Calle Londres. Both equally busy, often with lines to get a table. The pozole there is excellent!
Judy eventually caught up to us, and after dinner we walked the length of Calle Genova between Insurgentes and Ave. Reforma. The streets were lively and the stroll enjoyable, with a stop for ice cream at McDonalds. At the Angel we stumbled into the city’s tourist kiosk and found our place to catch the Hop-on/Hop-off bus, just up from our hotel. Over our trips we have found these busses excellent and economical ways learn the lay of the land, not to mention transport to the major sights. When they run on-time it’s the best no fuss way to get around. When offered at a reasonable price we will get multi-day tickets, often just an extra few dollars.
One reason we went down early was to get adjusted to Mexico City’s 7,350 foot altitude – compared to Denver’s 5,280 feet. The good news is none of us suffered any ill-effects. No headaches, faintness or shortness of breath. That’s not to minimize the potential. Everyone is different. During our stay we did not suffer from the city’s fabled air pollution. Your experience may vary.
Our first full day in town took us first to the Zocalo, the giant central square that dates back to Aztec days. We grabbed the Hop-on bus and enjoyed the ride from the upper deck on a bright, sunny day. Along the way we passed the colorful Palacio de Bellas Artes and the Juarez Monument. The Zocalo is an enormous space accented by an equally enormous Mexican national flag flying at its center. Around its edges are government offices, the National Palace, and the Metropolitan Cathedral.
It was disappointing that the square was lined with temporary bleachers, and the Cathedral surrounded by scaffolding and chain link fence blocking off construction work. At the far end there were tents, which we were told was the Christmas Market. The next day they were gone!
The interior of the Cathedral was impressive. The Spanish do religious art perhaps better than anyone. It is a mixture of styles as it took almost 300 years to construct beginning in 1524. Gold predominates.
As a young parochial school student, the stories of places like Cerro del Tepeyac, where the Virgin Mary appeared four times to Juan Diego in 1531. Today, the site is a complex that includes two major basilicas and various other chapels honoring Our Lady of Guadalupe. It is easily reached by municipal or Hop-on bus. Along the way it is common to see processions headed to the shrine, carrying statues and banners while singing songs and reciting prayers to the spiritual patroness of Mexico and Latin America..
Inside the new Basilica of Santa Maria de Guadalupe is the tilma or cloak, made from the threads of the maguey cactus, which bears the image of Our Lady. The maguey cactus fabric normally disintegrates after 50 or 60 years, but this garment shows no deterioration after nearly 500 years. Modern science has been used to examine the image and garment, and can offer no explanation. It is on display in the new Basilica, where one can get a closer view by following the crowd through the tunnel underneath the sanctuary. Over the course of our stops in Mexico City we visited the shrine four times. It never disappointed. Whether your views are faithful or secular, I recommend a visit.
'Round the World with Brian and Jan 